Zunil

Saturday I took my first adventure in a chicken bus. These are old American school buses that were shipped down here when they failed to meet emission standards, have been repainted in bright colors and designs, and serve as public transportation. They are notorious for black fumes of smoke, fast driving, and little patience.

We traveled to Zunil for the afternoon to take in some of the local sights. Zunil is located about 30 minutes south of Xela but in the same department (state). Six of us (Rachel, Sarah, Aeja, Hannah, Shannon – Logan’s housemate) picked up a chicken bus at a gas station a few blocks from the park. For 5Q we packed three to a seat and went on our way. Zunil is much smaller than Xela and located in a valley between mountains. The city grows up onto the hillside. We walked across a river filled with foam and trash to the city center.

Our first destination was the church. It had a large white front with spiral columns. There were some men sweeping the floor as we surveyed the insides. The sheer size of Catholic churchs amazes me. We also saw the remains of the day’s market outside the church and wandered the stands. We were the only tourists.

Our second destination was a textile cooperative. Below the church, we a found a group of women who weave fabric in traditional patterns. We were excited by a bunch of bracelets which were woven in the same manner as trajes. They are much nicer than the typical friendship bracelets you find in the market (no worries – I bought a plenty to share). I also saw some neat clothes. I may go back and buy them to use a table cloths, wall coverings, or otherwise.

Our third destination was the “house” of San Simon. The women from the cooperative directed us up the street and said to ask for directions along the way. I stopped at a tienda and asked where the house of San Simon was. He replied that San Simon did not exist and neither did his house. I then questioned whether it had been closed and that I had read about a place to visit San Simon. He then understood what we were searching for – not actually a house but ceremonial location. Uphill we went following a few signs along the way. We walked past the room the first time in the maze of sidewalks (the city did not have planning, that’s for sure). On one side of the “house” was a tienda to buy candles and gifts to donate. On the other side was a dark room with people praying and an array of candles burning. For 5Q we were permitted to enter and view San Simon. He is represented by a small mannequin sitting in a chair. He looks like a doll. The attendant lights his cigars and pours his drinks. San Simon is the saint of evil. Myth says that he was a Spanish conquistador who brought medicine but was representative of the defeat fo the Maya. People pray to him and give offerings to ask for safety from disease and to commit harm on others. The different color candles represent different desires. We watched two couples (I assume) light two red candles of a man and woman embracing. According to my guide book, red is for love. They offered the saint Quezalteca (a local alcohol). The attendant removed the smoking cigar from the mouth and tilted back the chair. He then allowed one of the men to pour the liquor into the saint’s mouth from a special cup. This was repeated twice for the second couple. Each time one of the couples drank from the bottle as well. This whole procession was a bit strange and incomprehensible for us. We left to allow the others to proceed in peace and avoid giggling in a sacred location. It is interesting how some people handle uncomfortable situations – again I was the mom educating the group and regulating our time.

When returned to the bus as the rain began. Onward to Xela the rain stopped. We detoured to McDonald’s on our way home. I had a small fry and vanilla cone – tasted exactly the same as at home. Next time I will try the cheeseburger (for you Kathryn).