November 1 is Todos Los Santos (All Saint’s Day). I observed two common traditions on this day – visiting the cemetery and flying kites. A few of us woke up early and headed to the cemetery around 630am. The usual very colorful cemetery was overflowing with people, flowers, and food. The streets leading up to the gates were filled with people selling wreaths, flowers, food, toys, CDs, and more. All around the cemetery family members were leaving flowers and favorite foods of loved ones lost, repainting tombs, and celebrating. Harim, Sherry, and I ran into our Spanish school’s family. They invited us to join them in visiting Mama Chaito’s husband’s tomb. As they continued on to the next family member, we broke away and wandered around. It was a surprisingly happy event for celebrating memories, not losses.
At 8am, we met the group at the fire station to head to Sumpango. Ten of us drove the two hours or so to a barrilete (kite) festival. The streets leading up to the field were overflowing with visitors, extranjeros (foreigners) and Guatemaltecos alike. This was the first time I had seen so many gringos who spoke only English. It is so strange to meet people who are traveling but cannot speak the language and have made no effort to learn. There were also vendors selling artisan crafts, food, and kites, of course. When we arrived at the field, there were already thousands of people on site. There were kites of all different sizes that were entered in the festival. They ranged in size for a few meters to 14 meters. Each of the kites is constructed from tissue paper and bamboo. The bigger kites require rope instead of string to fly them. We spent most of our time walking around and admiring the kites that were on display. The bright color depicted some religious scenes or important images to the people of Sumpango. A few of the smaller kites were flown throughout the day with men in the middle of the field. On the other side of the wall from the field, ninos were running around flying their own kites of plastic. I learned an interesting tradition about kites as well: If your kite does not fly, you must burn it. The kites are thought to carry away spirits of ancestors and the dead who bother you on the surface during this holiday. However, if the kite does not fly, the kite has not served its function.
As with all festivals, we ate lots of food. Kate brought us each cookies and bread stuffed with cheese and veggies made in Carlos’s bakery. Some people also bought elote, barbequed corn on the cob with lime and salt. We took in the sights, smells, and sun.
Early in the afternoon, we headed back to the micro and Xela. It was a beautiful day with the colorful kites contrasting the bright blue sky and clouds. Every day I continue to see children flying kites made from whatever materials they find in their house and yard. With the dry season comes lots of wind and sunshine.
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